News from the IX Noche del Vino de la DOP Valencia.


 

 

Opening the White at Aranleon.

Opening the White at Aranleon.

Once again the organisers of the Noche del Vino had chosen a warm evening in June for this annual look at developments in the DO, in its Bodegas and to try new wines as well. It is also a night to catch up with the many friends and acquaintances made over the last few years! This is the night that professionals from the press, hotel and restaurant trades mingle with the bodega owners and distributors of their wines. interestingly this year it clashed with the equivalent fair in DO Alicante and a serious tasting offered by the distributors in Castellon although you would not have noticed any shortage in the number of people attending this event!

I started with Aranleon, one of several bodegas whose vineyards are in Utiel-Requena but choose the Valencia DO to market their wines. The bodega has been very lucky to avoid this years devastating hailstorms which have done considerable damage in the area.The new white Blanco Solo 2012 is a blend of Chardonnay, Macabeo and Sauvignon Blanc at 13%ABV. It is clean and fresh with glycerinous legs and a well-balanced fruit which is quite rich with a big clean acidity. A big wine.

 

Bisila Range.

Bisila Range.

The Verdil from Daniel Belda is also fresh but lighter in style and it seems amazing that in just four months the wine, which is always the first wine in the Northern Hemisphere to be marketed each year, will be available in the 2013 vintage! Belda has not been quite so lucky this year with a large area of the Chardonnay crop  in their Fontanars vineyards destroyed by hail.

Also from Fontanars I tried the 2012 vintage of the Brote white from Dominio de los Pinos. This is a barrel fermented blend of Viognier and Verdil and is a whopping 14.5%ABV. Old gold, clean and bright, with very long slow, fat glycerinous legs. The wine is unctuous too. On the nose white flowers, acacia and tropical fruits. In the mouth very full, peach, clean acidity and a very big silky mouthful of wine.

Nearby were the wines from Ladron de Lunas, another Requena based bodega  and marketing well with sales abroad. They now also make the wines for the African Literacy project, Bisila wines which I wrote about in February 2012 when the wines were made by Torre Oria. I tried the  Sauvignon Blanc 2012, 12.5%ABV, a fresh white with a big gooseberry nose and clean fresh acidity and ripe fruit in the mouth. To me this seemed to be French in style , very aromatic and pleasant. The Chardonnay also has a hint of the Macon style about it. 12.5%ABV and with a month in barrel, it is straw yellow, quite restrained on the nose but in the mouth well-balanced, dry and a long finish.

Arquis supporting Muscular Dystrophy.

Arquis supporting Muscular Dystrophy.

 

And on the subject of Bodegas helping charities Torrevellisca from Fontanars were showing their new wines from the Arquis range which support a muscular dystrophy charity. The Primum Selección 2010 is 25% Merlot, 25% Tempranillo and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and is bright red, intense with ruby flashes and good legs. On the nose oaky and in the mouth smooth, easy drinking, with good mature red fruits.

Back to the whites and a very good one at that from Casa de las Vides, the Agullent bodega which I visited last year, ( Archives 2 June 2012) This is a blend of Macabeo, Verdil, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc and 13% ABV. Very clean and bright, fresh from its blue German style bottle, the nose is complex and full of white flowers, ripe fruit, pear, melon, peach and is quite spicy. In the mouth this complexity is less apparent, a nice fresh clean wine good acidity but well-balanced with lots of fruit flavours.

The Rosae ( rosado) is frankly one of the best I have ever tasted. From Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon it is rose in colour, smells of fresh red fruit with floral notes ( rose) and in the mouth is fresh, dry , fruity and very satisfying. This is the wine I heard the most compliments about on the night.

There are of course wines from other parts of the DO and from higher vineyards. From Siete Aguas the wines from Sanchez Zahonera are at about 900m above sea-level. This young bodega won a gold in Brussels for  the first vintage they made! Now producing four wines and the white  Bressols from Merseguera is an excellent example of what can be produced at these levels from a dry white grape. Alfonso Sanchéz the winemaker has produced a white which is fresh, clean and bright and with a floral nose. In the mouth this searingly dry variety is easy to drink with an aromatic intensity and is  fresh and fruity. Long dry finish.

Wines from Polo Monleon

Wines from Polo Monleon

Not far from here are the vineyards and the Bodega of the Polo Monleon family in Titaguas, one of the underated bodegas of the Alto Turia. Under the Hoya de Castillo label Manuel, the current winemaker is producing a range of four excellent but sadly little known wines. The white which is a blend of Merseguera and Macabeo ( 20%) is a very good wine. Pale lemon in colour I was surprised at the depth and richness of the fruit on the nose, white fruits such as melon and apple. In the mouth an initial sparkle the wine is full, well-balanced and with well balanced acidity. This bodega should be the subject of next weeks post.

Also high up above Valencia in the village of Alcublas (Valentino) the coop is producing two very good wines this year. The white is a pure Merseguera called Balcon de Valencia and it too is a fresh, easy drinking dry white with fresh fruit on the nose and in the mouth. But it is the red Tempranillo Palacia which has surprised me this year. Normally not a wine I would buy in the past,  the 2012 joven is full of fruit and a real easy drinker! The bodega sells both wines for just 2.15€ a bottle and produces a traditional Moscatel Mistela and a range of excellent award-winning olive oils. An easy drive from Valencia it is worth a visit for the views as well!

Reymos 1918

Reymos 1918

From the Moscatel growing area around Cheste, Chiva and Turis, the bodega in Cheste has increased its range of sparklers from the variety, in this case a `cava´ style called Reymos 1918. The bodega is of course part of the giant Anecoop brand and the bottle has a label designed by Montesinos. A brut nature the wine is winning prizes already. Clean fresh with hints of peach and orange skin on the nose it is fresh in the mouth with a creamy long full finish. A serious wine if a little overpriced for me.

The four sub-zones of the DO ( Alto Turia, Valentino, Clariano ( which includes the Terres dels Alforins) Moscatel and of course bolstered by the wines of Utiel-Requena using the Valencia DO have a wide diversity and produce wines for all tastes. Sadly there was no time to try all 200 wines on show given the crush and the social nature of the event. At least next year i can concentrate on some of the bodegas I missed this year!

Finally it is of course the event which acts as prize-giving for the DO. Chief amongst the worthy winners was Pablo Ossorio, technical director at Murviedro and one of the owners of Hispano-Suizas who was recognised with the DO´s Order of Merit.

 

 

 

Pablo Ossorio, Order of Merit.

Pablo Ossorio, Order of Merit.

 

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