Tag Archives: Tantum Ergo

Valencia Hosts 4th Cava Fair…..Cavas from Requena and Espumantes from Alicante.


 

Cava!

Cava!

 

 

D.O.Cava, Spain’s equivalent of Champagne is rather different to it´s French neighbour. Champagne is a region in the North of French and only wines from this area made in the `traditional method´ may be called `Champagne´.

In Spain wines made from the `traditional method´may be called D.O. Cava, the name invented to delineate Spain’s wine from Champagnes after the courts ruled that only wines from Champagne could bear that name. In Spain these wines come from five or so quite specific regions which have proved that they can produce quality Sparkling wine. The best known are Penedes and Catalonia but the town of Requena and its hamlets…….and specifically seven or so bodegas, have the right to make their own Cava.

 

The Public Enjoy the Event!

The Public Enjoy the Event!

 

There are other rules which apply such as the permitted grape varieties and the time the wine must remain in contact with the yeasts in the second fermentation.

Essentially the `traditional method´ consists of a primary fermentation, usually in stainless steel deposits but sometimes ( for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir ) in barrels. A second fermentation then takes place in the bottle and after this finishes the bottles are laid down in the cellars and allowed to rest either for nine months, up to 18 months ( Reserva) and 24 months ( Gran Reserva). However there are some bodegas who will increase these latter two periods to improve the wines….some for up to 4 years. Effectively although the yeasts die after the second fermentation reasonably quickly they then start to break down, and as they do so they impart proteins into the wine which give better quality cavas and champagnes the buttery, patisserie bouquets and creaminess into the flavour.

Needless to say cheap cavas generally have had the least time in bottle and are often described as green and acidic. The longer the wine has been in the bottle the smaller and more persistent the bubbles will be and the better the wine will taste for a year or two ( Cava does not generally keep much more than a year or two after release unlike Champagne which can improve in bottle for many years.)

Paella is Available Too!

Paella is Available Too!

Requena won the right to make Cava in the early 1980´s and over the last four years have held pre-xmas promotional fairs in Valencia allowing the public to taste local Cava before filling the supermarket trolleys for the festive season! It would also be fair to say Cava from Requena has been gaining in recognition and breaking the hegemony of their Catalan cousins in both quality and awards at wine competitions!

The fair has moved from its original site in the old University building to the Plaça Arbol, in the Carmen district where the XIIIth century cellars of the Islamic period have recently been discovered, preserved and placed on display.

Chozas Carrascal, the family bodega, was my first stop to chat with Maria-José. The cava is a Brut Nature Reserva from 2010, a blend of Chardonnay and Macabeo with 15 months in bottle. The wine is straw yellow in colour, clean , bright with golden flashes and fine ( very small) persistent bubbles. The nose is intense, fruity, floral and with patisserie in the background. Green apples and pears, apricots and perfume. In the mouth fresh, full, a good attack as the bubbles run across the palate, good balance, elegant. This is a cava to enjoy with food ( paella and seafood rice dishes). Widely available in Valencia and even in London now!

With Chozas Carrascal.

With Chozas Carrascal.

Each year before the fair, Els Bodeguers,  independent  wine sellers of Valencia meet to taste the wines and award prizes to their favourite three.

First Prize went this year to Bodega Vinya Natur from Castellon Province. ( Hang on, I hear you say, that is not Requena?) Correct, but the bodega have access to plots of vines in the Requena area and use a third-party bodega who have the right to make cava to elaborate their wine, in this case Torre Oria. This is one of the peculiarities of the rules. Their `Babel´also from the 2010 vintage is a Brut from Macabeo with 12 months in bottle. This is very clean and bright, pale yellow with good crown and persistent bubbles. A floral nose is followed by a good mouthful, fruity and easy to drink. Good for aperitifs this one, should suit all tastes!

Ist Prize. Babel.

Ist Prize. Babel.

Beso de Rechenna is made at UVÉ, the big bodega owned by the Catalan firm Freixenet. It is a trademark name but a very good cava for all that. 80% Macabeo and 20% Chardonnay with 15-18 months in bottle this is a Brut Nature Reserva. Straw yellow with golden flashes, clean , bright and good bubbles. On the nose fragrant, white fruits, apple, pear, with hints of patisserie and citrus fruit. In the mouth a good attack, well-balanced with a slightly bready, yeasty flavour. easy to drink. Good with fish and white meat dishes.

UVÉ also make cavas for several clients outside the D.O. ( that is to say other bodegas). Their trademark cavas sell as Vega Medien and you may well find them in supermarkets or the Xmas hampers that are the prizes in every raffle at this time of year! The wines may be blends of Chardonnay, Macabeo or even the traditional Catalan varieties Xarel-Lo and Parellada which are transported to Requena ( yes, that is allowed under the rules as well!) Vega Medien Ecologico won second prize, for the record. For me the best wine they produce is Lagrima Real, a Millesimé wine ( from a single vintage ) in this case 2008. This is a well crafted wine, the first fermentation is followed by six months contact with the lees before the second fermentation in bottle and a further three years in contact with the yeasts.

Needless to say we are talking about a serious creamy and rich cava. Straw yellow, reflecting its age, with persistent very fine bubbles the nose has strong white fruit flavours, almond and peach stones and lots of patisserie with custard notes. In the mouth very creamy, hints of apricot fruit and a long finish. Very elegant. Not cheap at around 14-15€ a bottle but we are talking a classy wine for eating with meat dishes.

Wines From UVÉ, Lagrima Real, Centre.

Wines From UVÉ, Lagrima Real, Centre.

Next two Rosado Cavas from Pinot Noir. The first is from Dominio de la Vega and a real favourite. Pinot Noir well made produces fresh fruity wine and this is no exception. A deep pink, rose wine with fine bubbles, on the nose fresh, red fruits such as strawberry and red currant. In the mouth, light, fresh, fruity, very good balance, easy to drink with a long finish. Ideal as an aperitif or with seafood paellas. Around 12€ a good buy from El Corte Ingles.

The second is Hispano Suizas Tantum Ergo which has already been named the best cava  Rosado in the world , the highest scoring in the Parker, Penin and Sevi guides. At around 20€ not the cheapest but that reflects its quality and scarcity value. Pale rose in colour, fine persistent bubbles, with a nose consisting of nuts, toasted vanilla and red fruit. In the mouth, very clean, fresh, great attack, creamy with a long fruity finish. 15 months in bottle….just long enough, lovely!

Murviedro produce a wide range of wines, many of them available in British supermarkets as well as here. Last week I reported on their new Corolilla Chardonnay. Luna de Murviedro took third prize at the fair but I went for the Expresion Solidario Cuvee which is also 100% Chardonnay. When it is poured the first thing to strike you is the dense crown of bubbles and then the golden-yellow colour. On the nose it is intense, white flowers and mature white fruit, vanilla and almonds. In the mouth, powerful, creamy, well-balanced and with a long finish. A brut Nature with 15 months in bottle this is another quality wine.

Tantum Ergo Rosado. Hispano Suizas.

Tantum Ergo Rosado.
Hispano Suizas.

Finally in Cava I tasted Toni Arraez´s A2 Brut Reserva. The bodega is in Font de Figueras in DO Valencia but again he has used a qualifying bodega to make his wine….as neighbours Daniel Belda do.

Th wine has 20 months in the bottle, is pale yellow, clean, bright, with good m, fine persistent bubbles. On the nose fragrant white fruits, mature white fruit and plenty of patisserie and citrus notes. In the mouth, good balance, yeasty, bready flavours, full and with a long finish, this is again a wine which accompany many different dishes.

Dominio de la Vega.

Dominio de la Vega.

Finally Bocopa, the Alicante based Coop showed a range of their espumosas, wines which are not Cava and not usually from the traditional method and being much lighter in alcohol at around 7%-10%ABV. Three wines in the Marina range, a Moscatel, a Brut from Macabeo, Chardonnay and Merseguera and a Rosado from Monastrell all impressed as light fresh ,fruity, refreshing, easy drinking aperitifs or just fun wines.

Representation was down with the absence of Vera de Estenas, Belda, Coviñas, Pago de Tharsys , Sybarus from Torroja and Sebiran but there was a superb range of wines to taste and demonstrate the quality of Cava from Valencia. There is much to enjoy and not just for Xmas!

 

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A Visit to Bodegas Hispano+Suizas, Open Day During the Vendimia.


The Bodega´s Products.

 

Hispano+Suizas is a bodega within D.O. Utiel-Requena but also has the right to make D.O.Cava. It sits on the N322 from Requena to Albacete just outside the hamlet of El Ponton and opposite Finca Ardal.

The bodega itself appears old but the façade whilst original and originally an old local finca, is completely modern, both behind and more importantly underneath! The bodega is also sufficiently modern not to appear in either the guide by Juan Piqueras in 2000 or the Biblio Metropoli´s Guide to the Wine Routes of the Valencian Community which was published in 2004/5. The reason of course is that this is a very new project, dating back to the first wine in 2006 only!

Syrah in the Vineyard.

The project is the result of a friendship between three major protagonists all of whom had, and still have,  experience working in a big Swiss owned conglomerate Bodegas Schenk, now Murviedro.

Marc Grin, Pablo Ossorio and Rafael Navarro named the bodega after their origins. Marc is the Swiss born marketing arm of the enterprise, responsible for much of the design, who today combines his overseas marketing role for Hispano+Suizas with that of Murviedro.

Pablo is Technical Director of Murviedro and wine-maker at Hispano+Suizas, having graduated from the Requena Wine School and with International experience in Argentina and Italy. Pablo was chosen by his peers as best winemaker in the Valencian Region in 2008.

Rafa is in charge of the vineyards and is also winemaker at the bodega. His particular interests are getting the best out of some of the newer varieties in the DO such as Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc he is considered an innovative viticultor and is consultant to other bodegas in the area.

Freshly picked Cabernet Franc.

At 4000 vines to the hectare, all `en espaldera, ´ the bodega comprises some 60 hectares, most of which surround the winery itself. Apart from the newer varieties of Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Verdot, the two Cabernets (Sauvignon and Franc), Merlot, Syrah and of course Bobal make up the red varieties and  Chardonnay and Verdejo the whites.

Having started in 2006 the bodega has survived on very small productions of each of its wines, initially Bassus Pinot Noir and Impromptu, a barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc. The cavas followed, Tantum Ergo in two versions. First was the white, a Dom Perignon style blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and the rosado which is pure Pinot Noir.

Today there are eight wines in the range, all named with a musical theme reflecting what the bodega itself would describe as a slightly elitist approach to wines, nonetheless the wines are accessible ranging from 17.5€ to 38.5€ depending on the product. As the old adage goes, quality always sells, added to the rarity value of some of these wines the prices reflect the quality which is defined not just by tasting the wines but by the scores awarded by those who matter, Parker, Penin, Guia Sevi  and Gastronostrum. The rosado cava scored between 92-4/100 in these guides and has been described as the best in the world! In fact Penin has placed five of the wines in the very top range of wines from Spain, two years running.

Pinot Noir Fermenting.

The open day commenced with a quick look at the vineyard where harvesting of the Cabernet Franc was under way before moving to the reception area for the grapes where we were shown the chilling chambers where the grapes spend up to 36 hours resting before wine-making process begins. ( For more details see my archived post 11 February 2011. ) Here we also tasted the freshly harvested Cabernets.

Into the bodega you are struck first by the two rows of open-topped barrels with wine fermenting within, the cap of grapes ( whole berry fermentation) sitting thick on top and awaiting batonnage to extract maximum aroma and colour. The deposits are all small by many standards, reflecting the fact that this year may just be the first where they achieve the 85k bottle maximum production.

In the cellars.

Downstairs the small undercroft is full of oak barrels and bottles of cava in various stages of development and then the bottling area shares space next door with the wines which have been bottled, cased and which are ready for sales and distribution.

Then upstairs we visited the `hotel´, five rooms which are available for those following the Rutavino in Utiel-Requena and which are part of their contribution to wine-tourism in the area. In practice these rooms which are individually and differently decorated tend to be used more by visitors to the bodega from abroad and buyers from within Spain.

Back outside were joined by fourth member of the team, Vicente Cortes who was to introduce Rafa to us and then conduct a tasting of five of the bodegas wines accompanied by local snacks such as bollo and ajoarriero.

Vicente is head of national sales, accounting still for about 70% of the bodega´s production.

Vicente Cortes.

First wine was the Tantum Ergo Brut Nature from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. From 2009 I have found this wine to be consistent year on year ( so far) and the wine is straw yellow, clean and bright with green flashes. The bubbles are very fine and persistent. The nose demonstrates white flowers, patisserie and some citrus elements, and long-lasting. In the mouth full, good attack and nice acidity, citrus fruits and a long satisfying finish.

Second was the Tantum Ergo Pinot Noir, Brut Rosado from 2010. Pale strawberry  or rose-pink, fine persistent bubbles, good crown, clean and bright. On the nose predominantly red fruits, vanilla and a degree of toastiness. In the mouth it is soft, passes easily across the palate, good acidity and long fruity finish. A lovely wine.

Third was the 2011 vintage of the Impromptu Sauvignon Blanc. Yellow, with green flashes, clean and very bright. Good legs. On the nose fresh, intense tropical fruit notes, almost jammy. In the mouth rich ripe fruit is balanced with good acidity, the wine is satisfying and with a long finish. For me this is a wine to lay down and drink in 5 years or so when it will be better balanced and more honeyed.

Tantum Ergo Brut Nature.

Fourth was the Bassus Pinot Noir 2010. I had not tasted this wine since the DO´s bloggers tasting in 2010. Cherry red with a violet edge, long legs. On the nose cherry, blackcurrant and liquorice, whilst in the mouth full fruit, jam, concentration, caramel and a hint of coffee cream from the 10 months spent in oak. A very distinct wine from the only parcel of Pinot Noir in the DO.

Finally we tasted the 2009 Bassus Premium, a blend of Bobal, Cabernet Sauvignon , Merlot, Shiraz and Petit Verdot. Very deep black cherry, intense with long slow legs. On the nose red fruits, wood fruits, oak, vanilla and balsamic notes. In the mouth rich and very full bodied, smoky, red fruits, jam, long satisfying finish…a blockbuster!

A very interesting visit to yet another bodega which is quite different , reflecting the personalities of the owners and a very personal wine-making style. Well  worth a visit, the bodega has limited open days or  by appointment. www.bodegashispanosuizas.com/

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